8/15/2022 0 Comments Walk 5 - Crimdon DeneOr the first part of the Horden to Crimdon stretch of the England Coast Path
This was the first part of the County Durham stretch of the England Coast Path I have walked this year. It follows the older, better established Durham Hertiage Coast walk, originally just 11 miles between Seaham and Crimdon, but now much longer stretching from Sunderland to Hartlepool. Much of the Durham coastline was marred by mining, the beaches covered in spoil or coal dust, being black rather than golden. This meant that as children we spent more time at Crimdon with its soft sand dunes. We used to have a photograph of my sister and I sitting on in the dunes with woollen sweaters during the summer. The breeze from the North Sea can be cold at any time of year. There was also a huge paddling pool there, or at least it seemed like it to me as a child. I also learned to drive here. There used to be a huge car park and many a Thursday afternoon when it was quiet in winter, I practised reverse parking in the bays. Sadly both the paddling pool and car park are long gone. But the dene is still there, as picturesque as always with the beck meandering through it to the sea and the spectacular viaduct overhead. The England Coast Path Between my trip to Scarborough and walking this section of the England Coast Path I fell down and sprained my ankle. It still is not right. This stretch of the walk should be from Hordon to Crimdon, but I have created 3 shorter circular walks which cover this stretch which for me is more manageable, Denemouth to Blackhall Rocks Circular, Blackhall Rocks Circular and Crimdon Dene Circular. It was the sort of day starting misty but peeling back to reveal a glorious day. I headed to Crimdon only to find the mist had not lifted and although I could hear the waves and fog horn, I could not see the beach or sea. I headed along the cliff tops passed the caravans and chatted with several holiday-makers mostly about whether the mist would lift soon or not. The cliffs are high and spectacular here. One of the footpaths to the beach was closed because of a rock fall, however the second one which dropped down to Limekiln Gill was still open, but it is a very long way down and an even longer way back up. I walked to the head of the gill and looked back down, the usual view shrouded in mist. Walking back down the road to Crimdon Dene I passed people waiting to catch the bus to Hartlepool. Shopping or museum probably seemed a better option than a misty day on the beach. Crimdon Dene The path down into Crimdon Dene is very steep, but the mist had temporarily lifted and the sun shone through the trees dappling the footpath with light. As I reached the bottom, the dene opens up into a wide grassed area and it would appear that a family decided camping here was better than hiring a caravan. I have no problem with this as long as they leave no trace. The views of the viaduct above dominate the area. Built in 1905 to carry the railway along the coast to Hartlepool and beyond, it is still in operation. The day I walked this route was a rail strike day, but a lone Northern train passed overhead. Continuing through the dene I crossed the bridge over Crimdon Beck, but there was no water anywhere, last time I was here it was a torrent following heavy rain. As I reached the end of the dene by the beach the mist rolled in again and it was difficult to make out the path to the beach so I doubled back towards the car park. When I was young, the beach was accessed by walking across the dunes at any point, now there are specific walkways and much of the dunes are fenced off to protect them. Little terns nest here and a bird hide and sculptures are a reminder of these endangered birds. I didn't see any, not even a seagull, I could hear them, and I could hear children playing on the beach in the mist but couldn't see them either. I met a couple who had just come back from the beach, they had not dared to go too far in case they got lost, had walked on the beach but couldn't find the sea, we assumed it was low tide. Back on the England Coast Path I walked back to the car, having parked it at the new Dunes cafe and decided to treat myself to a cup of coffee before returning home. For a long time there were no facilities for day trippers here. Back in the 70s when we took trips here there were lots of facilities such as the paddling pool, cafe and large car park. I find it very difficult to follow the argument that although seaside visitor numbers dropped as we all go abroad for our holidays, removing every last useful amenity from popular beaches like Crimdon Dene has surely forced its demise. If it were not for the holiday parks this lovely stretch of coast would be completelty barren. Shame on the local councils. Public conveniences, a cafe with decent parking and water filling station (trying to be green with my own water bottle) are all that are required really for a family day out or walking the England Coast Path. I must commend them however on the excellent signage along the way.
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AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. CategoriesAll England Coast Path North Gare To South Bents South Bents To Amble
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